Although I’m planning an extended trip abroad in April-May 2023, since Covid I’ve tended to go for frequent short breaks here in the UK. My latest one was a few days staying within the confines of the Osborne estate on the Isle of Wight. The weather wasn’t great, but my sister and I managed to see a lot.

As you no doubt know, Osborne was the holiday home of Queen Victoria. It was her favourite place – “our dear Osborne, which is like a little paradise for us” – and the place where she died.

We stayed in a delightful place converted from the interior of the Sovereign’s Gate and we enjoyed free access to the house and indeed any English Heritage sites on the island. I’ll try to write a post about Carisbrooke Castle and Dimbola House later.

Although huge, Osborne definitely has the feel of a family home rather than a regal palace – at least in the Pavilion where the family lived. Although the rooms are large, the Victorian fashion for clutter and ornamentation give them a sense of intimacy and comfort.

Billiard room

There are paintings and statues everywhere – the royal couple tended to give each other artworks for birthdays – which until Albert’s death were spent at Osborne. While Victoria continued to spend a lot of time in her beloved Osborne, after his demise she always avoided spending her birthdays there.

Sadly, on our visit the upstairs was closed for the winter for cleaning and restoration, so we didn’t get to see the bedrooms, nursery, or the study where V&A sat side by side at matching desks. The house was however decked out for Christmas and looked warm and welcoming, despite its grandeur.

I particularly wanted to see the Durbar Room and the Durbar Corridor with Rudolph Swoboda’s magnificent collection of portraits of individual Indians – craftsmen and women from throughout the subcontinent. Neither disappointed. About a year ago I read Fatima Manji’s book Hidden Heritage and had longed to visit Osborne since. The Durbar Room is breath-taking – a giant confection of incredibly elaborate white plaster work, with double height ceiling, a faux minstrels’ gallery and an early installation of electric lighting. It also houses the numerous stunningly crafted gifts to Victoria throughout her reign from the various states and principalities of India.

From the Durbar corridor

Those of you who have seen the film Victoria and Abdul will know all about Abdul Karim, the queen’s munshi, who was brought to Osborne to teach her Hindu and fed her passion for the country she never visited but always longed to see.

The grounds of Osborne are also impressive: open parkland rolling down to the sea, where Victoria enjoyed a private beach complete with bathing machine. Again, thanks to it being out of season we couldn’t access the interior of the Swiss Cottage, the wooden house Albert built for the children as part of his educational vision for them. There they learnt to grow vegetables, cook, and curate their own museum. Near the main house there is also an extensive walled garden and below the house are ornate pleasure gardens with a vista upon the sea.

The Swiss Cottage

Even in dreary, drizzly rain Osborne was a fascinating and beautiful place to visit. I will definitely return some time – hopefully in fine weather to enjoy more of the grounds and see the upper floor.